You may have heard of l'Ortolan in years past, but this lovely restaurant has been given a refurbishment, a great new chef, and a new lease of life. The fittings are luxurious, with a dark and moody bar in tones of indigo, a smart main dining room in neutral tones of the modern variety, and a winning glass room with roman blinds and tent-like ceiling. Altogether, the affect is light and welcoming while maintaining that fine dining sophistication. Chef Daniel Galmiche was voted Newcomer of the Year back when he was a newcomer, and we are delighted that he has the chance to really show his stuff here. The kitchen cooks haute French, with dishes like starter of ballantine of quail with truffle, apple tatin, mixed leaves and ginger-infused jus, main course of baked fillet of brill with a ragout of asparagus, wild mushrooms and truffle cream sauce, and pud of roasted figs in honey and rosemary with goat's cheese ice cream. There are seven-course menus gourmands for both vegetarians and carnivores. The wine list has a gratifying number of bottles in the affordable range as well as some eye-poppers that will linger in memory for decades to come.