Marmite, Staffordshire
As the producers acknowledge in their ongoing promotional campaign, you either love it or hate it. Marmite, described by Bill Bryson as having: The visual properties of an industrial lubricant, so we can be clear about which side he stands on.
Again, depending on your viewpoint, the genesis of Marmite was either a) to exploit the nutritional and flavour properties or b) to find a profitable way of disposing of the used yeast that was a by-product of brewing. Unsurprisingly the centre of British brewing, Burton-upon-Trent , was the birthplace of Marmite when The Marmite Food Company was established in 1902 - originally yeast from Bass was used to make it, and given that Bass is such a flavoursome brew perhaps it followed naturally that Marmite should have been equally potent, though of course it is non-alcoholic. After many corporate changes, the brand is now part of the Unilever empire.
The practicalities are that spent yeast is broken down, concentrated, filtered, and further processed before having additional flavour added some spice and probably celery or celery salt, along with some vitamins not contained in the yeast. But what is important is the result on your toast: a sticky, viscous, dark, savoury treat; or a sticky, glutinous, dark slick of shockingly overpowering goo, according to your standpoint. Like its carnal cousin Bovril Marmite also makes a good addition to gravies, soups and stews, and some like it as a drink.
Inexplicably expats miss it even if Marmite is something they only ate once a decade when in Britain. In times past when postings overseas could involve nutritional problems Marmite was indeed a godsend packed with vitamin B that could both remind you of home and keep beri-beri at bay. But in our contemporary world Marmite is probably available worldwide in the local shop: what those expats miss is the idea of Marmite. The salty, strong flavour (that illustrates by the way the elusive umami taste in the basic range we can actually taste rather than smell) associated with childhood. They pine for the place where Marmite comes from, and the people who tolerate, even love it.
It has been a crisp flavouring; paired with Guinness and even Champagne; used as a topping for ice cream (honestly). But in the end it is something spread on toast for a quick snack with a kick, for those who like it. Which takes us back to the way the product has been promoted: to echo the ads from the 1980s: is Marmite your mate?
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